War and Development

I have completed my in-country training. I learned a lot about the country, it’s people and development history. Here’s the dirty version:

1961 – Sierra Leone independent from UK.
1964 – the prime minister died and his brother was appointed to office. (Democracy slide begins?)
1967 to 86 – several coups took place.
1968 – Siaka Stevens became prime minister and turned SL into a republic state, thus he became President. He led with violence, using young men to fight opposition. These young men were sent to Cuba to train as fighters and became known as Siaka’s Dogs.
By 1977 there was no opposition. But students became fed-up with the government and revolted, almost over throwing the government. Violent rule continued. Things were really ruff by the mid 80s when Stevens brought military heads into government, not trusting his own corrupt party.
1989 – War broke out in neighbouring Liberia, spilling into Sierra Leone in 1991. The brutal civil war in Liberia played an undeniable role for the outbreak of fighting in Sierra Leone. The leader of the National Patriotic Front of Liberia reportedly helped form the Revolutionary United Front (RUF) under the command of a former Sierra Leone army corporal. In return, there were rewards of diamonds from Sierra Leone. The RUF launched its first attack in villages in Kailahun District in the diamond-rich Eastern Province of Sierra Leone in 1991.
1992 – the military, run by young leaders, staged a coup. In power, the military abused power including arbitrary arrests.
1996 – An internal coup was successful. A peace agreement was underway, but the civil society and the international community wanted a democratic election.
1996 – first democratic election in years. Peace accord signed.
1997 – Peace deal unravels, followed by another Military coup. The commonwealth suspends Sierra Leone; the UN imposes sanctions barring arms and fuel supply.
1998 – the West African “intervention force” ECOMOG drives rebels out of Freetown.
1999 – The rebels/RUF seize parts of Freetown from ECOMOG. After weeks of bitter fighting they are driven out, leaving behind 5,000 dead and a devastated city.
The UN intervenes.
1999 – May - A ceasefire is greeted with cautious optimism in Freetown amid hopes that eight years of civil war may soon be over.
2000 – May - Rebels close in on Freetown; 800 British paratroopers sent to Freetown to evacuate British citizens and to help secure the airport for UN peacekeepers.
2001 – May - Disarmament of rebels begins, and British-trained Sierra Leone army starts deploying in rebel-held areas.
2002 – January - War declared over. UN mission says disarmament of 45,000 fighters is complete.
2004 – February - Disarmament and rehabilitation of more than 70,000 civil war combatants officially completed.

Around this time development agencies started returning to Sierra Leone. In 2005 VSO SL reopened after shutting down in 1995. It was difficult at first to secure volunteers for placement in SL because of the fresh memory of the brutal civil war that left the country dilapidated and it’s people the most unfortunate in the world. VSO started with 5 volunteers in 2005, and now has around 48 in country. There seems to be an early return rate, as I see the names of volunteers stricken from the contact list.

This turbulent history is so recent. It is hard to believe coming from Canada. You can smell it in the air. I see the places where battles took place. It will take some time getting used to the fact that everyone you meet has been affected by the war. The kids across the street with no parents. They may have been victims of the war. Or maybe they fled to a neigbouring country. There are many more women than men here. You cannot go one block without seeing the victims of the RUF – amputees. Every current teenaged kid did not go to school during the 10-year civil war. He more-than-likely carried a gun and fought for one side or the other. Most of the educated professionals fled the country. Once a prestigious institution, the Sierra Leone University is now hopeless.

Desmond, was a military commander during the war. A strong man, now in his late twenties. No one messes with Desmond. Not just because he looks like he could win a battle against a gorilla, but because people know who he was. He’s now a driver for a group of development workers, and a close friend of us white dudes. I can only image what he did and saw. I feel that way about everyone I meet.


(Photo. Julian on our way home from work)

Development: Cold War. Sierra Leone aligned with the communists, thus training and development funding came from countries like Russia and China. Some of the nicest buildings including the national stadium were built by China.

In 1991 there was an emergency situation with food shortages and inflation. This is when aid relief started and continued until the war ended. After the war, some refugees returned and aid relief was slowly replaced by development funding.

Development is undertaken by many international agencies and NGOs. Big players like the UN and CARE (CARE is the longest standing, having been here since 1961). There are many local NGOs, like the one I work for (Campaign for Good Governance). Local NGOs are run by local people.

The development bodies are funded through various sources, but major funding comes from the likes of the World Bank, UK Foreign Affairs, the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) etc. They get there money from well-to-do tax payers! An interesting theme that keeps being mention is that funds for “relief” are much more sexy than “development”. So Sierra Leone, now out of the war and headline news, is seeing a major drop in funding support.

On the lighter side: Dirty. Everything is dirty here. Do not lick your fingers. Our water comes from a tank on the roof. When it’s empty we yell across the way to our neighbour (our landlord) to fill it up using his pump. No electricity no pump. No pump, no water. No water, no shower or toilet. Well, who takes a #2 when there’s no power. Yup. To the enjoyment of my roommates, it was preserved for a good half day till the power came on. My office is well equipped (SL standards). I even have AC in my office (shared with 4 others). But no water. Mango and Banana trees out my window. But no water. I must remember to ensure there is a bucket of water in the can before I go for my daily 10am meeting with John Brown. (I really do work with a John Brown).

And the Kids, they Cry.

Thursday I finally felt like I did something for someone else. Until then, I had been taken by hand to do everything. After training, I stopped off at Abraham’s corner market for some coke (my caffeine substitute for coffee). On the way back I saw a boy surrounded by children in a field. He was trying to teach himself how to ride a motorbike. To the amazement of the neighbourhood kids, I delivered a 5 minute lesson and demonstration. It was pretty sweet. I hope he lends me his bike one day. But I’m sure I’ll brake it! Everything here is poorly made. This poor kids new motorbike will surely disintegrate in the rainy season weather.

The shit can walk. Pots, pans, hangers, strainers, forks and bowls. I’ve officially shopped at all the common-man’s places in Freetown – the supermarkets, the trade markets and street vendors. If the shit could talk, it would say “ I am crap that was molded into something like a plate; made in china to test for the lowest quality possible. I couldn’t make it to the US market because, even there, there is no market for brittle, lead-laced shapes of durable goods.” I swear our pots are made of tin foil.

And the kids, they cry. I’m getting more comfortable with the locals. It’s easy at times, like Friday morning walking to work, when a random small boy ran towards to me to give me a big hug. A good 20-second bear hug to the leg. The white guy has magic over small children!

In the afternoon, during our city orientation, I sat waiting for people to buy some tin foil shaped into everyday things. I was sitting beside a family of 8ish sierra leoneans. A small boy was eying me up. So I made a drill noise with my mouth and poked him in the gut. (classic kid trick). That was the start of a 10-minute uncontrollable screaming and crying fit by the little dude. I was pretty embarrassed. There was nothing I could do to calm this kid down. More drill noises just made it worst. Guess I have to pick my spots with kids.

I learned my lesson. So, Saturday night I put away the drill noises and poking finger and just sat outside my house, near the neighbours. I just sat there. And the kids started to come one by one. Like squirrels to nuts. First was the quiet but adventurous Na-sai-o. A 6 yr old orphan boy. A hi-five. A couple of smiles. No drill noises. He called for his “sistas”. Twins Diane and Diana (7-yrs old). Soon I was surrounded by about 8 kid, ages 2 to 8. And after sharing popcorn and practicing my Krio, I had about 10 small hands on my head. They practiced making African hair styles on my crop. By this time Na-sai-o was completely comfortable with me. Calling me a “uman” (woman) with my long hair. Petting my goatee, punching me and pulling down his pants to moon me. All the while laughing uncontrollably. We will definitely get along well.

Random sights. I’ve seen more Rod Brind’Amour jerseys (1) in Freetown than I have in the whole of Canada. Canada is worn everywhere here. it’s nice. It must mean our donations are making it here. 1 Edmonton Oiler toque. Several intramural hockey jerseys. A Transport Canada and McGill U T-shirt. And lots of beer promotional shirts with stuff like “the puck stops here…”. I rode home in a Mama Mia Taxi from Toronto. (they were donated to developing countries after the show’s promotion) . Sunday at the beach... there was a garbage protest last week. The city stopped picking up garbage, so the people just piled all their refuse in the middle of a main street. A few days later trucks picked up the pile. The next day, a massive load of garbage washed up on the local beach. hmmmm. We're talking serious garbage, including dog carcasses. We do not swim at this beach.

Crazytown and Bruno

Where to begin. One – I made it safe and sound. All is good. Mom and Dad - please stop worrying and get some sleep! Two – Freetown is crazy. Customs and immigration was pretty much a free-for-all. The 20min car ride from the airport to the ferry was like a dream. I had been thinking about this journey for months, and now it’s a reality. The car lights light up the huts and women carrying bins of water and food on their heads along the road. Aside from car headlights and fires, it was pitch black.

I live with Julian (Kingston) and Laura (England) who’ve been here since October. We have a massive 4 bedroom second-floor apartment. One toilet that works and a shower.

We live in a pretty sweet neighbourhood… the neighbours already know my name. They’ve been waiting weeks to meet me. Jason. The white man living with the only two other white people in the hood. They are a bit confused with the one woman and two guys situation.

The lady across the street has a big family. I’m not good with numbers, but I’m gonna say about 10 kids. Most of them are orphans. They live in a little shack and an old van. I’ve gotta try to remember all their names!

VSO and the general volunteering community are very mindful of acclimatising new people. The first 48 hours have been very smooth thanks to Laura, Julian and Kate’s crew. VSO gave cash to others so that I won’t have to worry about finding and paying for food and transportation for the first week.

Against the advice of others (see mindful acclimatisation), I went with Laura to visit one of her AIDS patients. I had only spent 2 hours in the daylight in SL, and there I was in the impending-death ward in Freetown’s hospital. Not sure I could justly explain what I saw, but it’s something I will never forget.

I did a lot in my first weekend here, so for the sake of binary code conservation I will just write a few random thoughts to finish this blog entry… Its dusty and stinking HOT! It smells like the Algoma Steel Plant. The money looks like it was printed before Christ, and it smells like it is repeatedly soaked in crap and piss. We have a “guard” dog named Zorro. Everyone is super friendly, even the local weed dealer. There are very few white people around, but when you see one, you are best friends. So far I’ve met people from Windsor, Toronto, the Yukon and NYC. First breakfast was French toast with Canadian maple syrup courtesy Kate from Ottawa. Watched Sierra Leoneans sing-a-long to Shania Twain and Celine Dion at a local bar. Yes, shoot me now. We get a few hours of power each day. I once believed that Ottawa and Sault Ste Marie had the worst streets in the world. Wrong. (for Franco and the CSI team) I met Bruno’s parents. The chimp sanctuary was started for Bruno by his adoptive parents (an English couple) in 1995. I diplomatically asked about big Bruno. They didn’t tell me that he ripped the face of a taxi driver and ate two babies, but they say he is still at large! Along with 3 other chimps. So there is a real threat out there! Hahahha. I hope I see him on the street!

I start training tomorrow. Ready to learn some Krio.

Today London. Tomorrow Africa.

I’m sitting in a tiny hotel room at Heathrow airport. Already had to move to a new room because I blew a fuse with all the stuff I had plugged in – trying to suck as much energy into my electronics as possible before I land in Freetown, where power is on as frequently as Kenny vs Spenny.

I think I’m prepared, even though vision may be a problem – my glasses were a casualty of my last weekend in Ottawa. I packed 2 bags totaling 27 kgs. Not bad. Only one long-sleeve item.

It was a couple weeks of “send-off” beers, good-byes and a bit of crying (not me! hahaha… although my nieces can put anyone on the brink)

I have 2 alarms set and a wakeup call for 5 am. Good night.

T-10 Days

My flight to Sierra Leone is a little more than a week away. I’m having a nice relaxing Sunday after a couple weeks of draining preparations…. 4 wisdom teeth extractions (good timing!), 16 hours of moving in one day, 5 days of VSO training, malaria pill testing and multiple vaccinations– the last one, yellow fever, gave me a fever!

With most of the major prep work out of the way I’m starting to get excited about Sierra Leone and also sad to be leaving my friends and fam. It will be hard to step out of my life right now – great job, wonderful girlfriend, first place in my hockey pool ☺, my sports routines - and into a place where no one knows me and pizza may be hard to find!

My brother and some of the ‘boys’ are coming into town next weekend for a little party time, including Habs vs Sens. Then I’m off to the Soo on Sunday with a flight to London on Wednesday.

Until then, I’ll try to pack my life into 2 small bags!